Government Relations

The BFC is in constant communication with government and organisations on key issues affecting the fashion industry. Our industry’s sponsor government department is the Department for Digital, Culture, Media & Sport (DCMS) with whom the BFC communicates on a weekly basis. We’d like to hear from you so that we may communicate your specific concerns back to our government colleagues.

If you would like to get regular updates and be a part of industry briefings please get in touch government@britishfashioncouncil.com.

The BFC sits on a number of forums to represent the fashion industry, including:

• Creative Industries Council
  Chaired by the Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media & Sport, and n Sir Peter Bazalgette and updates to CIC website
• Creative UK
  Founding member of body that represents, champions and supports the UK’s creative industries
• Department for Culture Media & Sport Entertainment & Events Group Chaired by Julia Lopez, Minister of State for Creative & Digital
  Group to discuss and feed in issues to support events and festivals under COVID guidelines
• Department for Culture Media & Sport Touring Working Group Chaired by Julia Lopez, Minister of State for Creative & Digital
• Cross DIT/DCMS/BEIS groups
• Department Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy Consumer Goods Sector Panel Group for Trade Associations
• Department Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy, Department for International Trade Luxury Goods Group
• GREAT Private Sector Council
• Government Working Groups on geo-political issues as and when
  appropriate

The BFC is working across a number of policy areas to secure government support for the future of the fashion industry and the challenges being faced from Brexit, the recovery from the Covid-19 pandemic and how we are tackling climate change and our work with the Institute for Positive Fashion.

Advice for designers to support their businesses can be found on the BFC’s Brexit guidance and Covid guidance webpages.

TALENT

Developing and securing talent is an essential part of the fashion industry, both through education and training, and being able to source, retain and move talent and workers across the EU and internationally.

Issues

• The impact of COVID related travel restrictions on the industry that is used to operating globally, particularly on creatives and production.
• The implication of the potential changes to the Agency Supplement on the model and freelance community.
• Skills shortages exist, particularly in certain technical areas, and as a result of Brexit, with gaps in technical education and training which are unlikely to fill the shortage, with a need to broaden routes into the industry.
• There are fears that the shortage will be further compounded by the changes to, and growing decline of arts education.
• The difficulties with the new UK Immigration system with bringing talent and workers into the UK, for example the salary threshold for skilled worker visas, lack of fashion roles on the Shortage Occupation List and complications for certain workers such as models.
• The impact of Brexit on UK nationals being able to work across the EU, particularly creatives and freelancers, with issues around speed of and multiple entry and paperwork.
• Diversity & Inclusion within fashion, broadening pathways into the industry.

Key Wins

• Global Talent Visa for Fashion Designers, secured in partnership with Arts Council England, and the Home Office, with the support of the Department for Digital, Culture, Media & Sport. The BFC takes the role of Independent Assessor for applications in the fashion industry.
• The creation of a Models Code of Practice with the BFMA and Home Office and DCMS that provides guidance to UK Visa Sponsors (model agencies) on how to bring models into the UK under the Temporary Visa creative route, and ensure that they work within their sponsor’s licence. Conversations with the Home Office are ongoing.
• The BFC led the development of the Fashion Studio Assistant Apprenticeship with the Institute of Apprenticeships and a group of employers, giving new opportunities within the industry.

Representation

• Representation on DCMS Touring Working Group, Chaired by Julia Lopez MP, Minister of State for Creative & Digital
• The BFC are in direct discussions with DCMS to draft a quarantine exemption for the fashion industry to ensure key talent is able to travel freely
• The BFC are engaged with BEIS over the Agency Supplement consultation
• The BFC are engaged in geo-political issues with areas of government on
  implications for the fashion industry
• The BFC are engaged with the Home Office Migration Policy Unit
• The BFC represent the fashion industry on the Creative Industries Council
  Education and Diversity & Inclusion Sub-Groups
• Input into Migration Advisory Committee consultations
• All Parliamentary Party Group: Art, Craft, Design Education
• T Level Development Panel for Craft and Design Led by the Institute of
  Apprenticeships & Technical Education, panel of practitioners developing the new T level route to study technical fashion post GSCE

TRADE

Fashion is a global industry. Understanding the impact of the UK exiting the EU on movement of goods, particularly as the industry relies on movement of components and samples, is a complex issue facing the industry.

Issues

• Supporting the industry to understand the complexities, decision-making and paperwork required to trade with the EU and internationally under new Free Trade Agreements to reduce management and cost.
• Reaching workable Free Trade Agreements with other territories that are still in negotiation particularly in our key markets including USand target emerging markets; Singapore, India, the CPTPP
• To continue the UK can trade with the EU as seamlessly as possible and to highlight with government issues emerging.
• Understanding Rules of Origin, in order to gain access to tariff and quota free trade with the EU, particularly as the fashion industry deals with component goods and short product life-cycles.
• VAT & E-commerce - Changes on VAT charges for goods and services to EU and on Duties and VAT for ecommerce sales to EU.
• Tax Free Shopping - Calls for a reversal of the decision to abolish the VAT Retail Export Scheme in the UK.
• The Boeing/Airbus trade dispute with the USA is continuing to have an impact on the fashion industry where punitive tariffs are being applied to fashion and textile products by the USA.

Key Wins

• The BFC is lobbying alongside organisations across the luxury sectors to reinstate the VAT Retail Export Scheme for tax free shopping
• The BFC is working with the Mayor of London’s Business Hub to ensure that the fashion sector in London has a better understanding of new requirements involved in selling, trading and working in the EU. Together we are developing a range of support that will deliver webinars, guides and 1-2-1 activity covering topics such as rules of origin, IP, e-commerce and VAT.
• The BFC is working closely with government on the Rules of Origin
• The BFC organised a seminar for the fashion industry with representatives
  from DCMS and the Border and Protocol Delivery Group (within Cabinet Office). Policy experts from across the government (HMRC, Department of Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy and the Home Office) spoke on changes arising from the end of the Transition Period which affect the fashion industry and preparations for London Fashion Week. Topics covered movement of people (e.g. travelling to EU/UK for business purposes) and movement of goods (e.g. customs processes, customs relief, temporary admission and rules of origin).

Representation

• Department for International Trade - Creative Industries Trade Advisory Group (TAG)
  Set up to support DIT policy team in defining new free trade agreements
• Department for Culture Media and Sport Touring Working Group Chaired by Julia Lopez MP, Minister for Creative & Digital
• Department for International Trade, Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office on geo-political issues
• Creative Industries Trade & Investment Board
• Department for International Trade Luxury Steering Group
• Department Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy Consumer Goods
  Sector Panel Group Weekly call with trade associations to discuss future of
  industries including Brexit & COVID
• EPR Working Group, (Extended Producer Responsibility) with Department
  for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs
  
  

THE FUTURE OF FASHION

The fashion industry is committed to reset and change to create responsible, sustainable businesses.

Issues

• Impact of COVID-19 on sales and businesses in the fashion industry is significant with revenues predicted to drop and a generation of fashion talent, from students and graduates through to start-up businesses will be affected.
• Diversity & Inclusion - The BFC’s Diversity & Inclusion Steering Committee, is an essential part of its long-term plan to fight prejudice and discrimination and galvanise the industry into action.
  Diversity & Inclusion
• Clean Growth & Environment - The BFC’s Institute of Positive Fashion aims to support the fashion industry in the UK accelerate towards circularity and the goals set out in the Paris Agreement, specifically it enables positive change through collaboration and knowledge sharing.
  Institute of Positive Fashion
• The fashion industry needs to innovate to significantly reduce its impact on the environment. Through an industry led strategy that focuses on R&D, supported by academia where appropriate, to create a new eco-system
  fashion industry that will see smarter manufacturing, waste management, re-cycling, upcycling and new business models to create a better circular fashion economy that significantly reduce the amount of waste and the industry’s impact on both environment and people.
• Funding support from the government is essential to ensure the future of fashion. The fashion industry has benefited from European Regional Development Funds (ERDF), Mayor of London and Department for International Trade funding for development of the industry and businesses, enabling the industry to work collectively to test new showcasing platforms and support emerging talent.

Key Wins

• The BFC have engaged Westminster Council to help us to secure free tests for London Fashion Week productions and filming and our constant conversations with DCMS have enabled London Fashion Week to go ahead under Covid secure guidelines.
• The BFC has ensured, with the support of DCMS, that productions for London Fashion Week February 2021 go ahead under COVID secure guidelines.
• The BFC worked closely with DCMS to receive an exemption for physical shows to go ahead under COVID-secure guidelines for London Fashion Week September 2020.
• Securing funding from the Arts & Humanities Research Council to enable two Post-doctoral researchers to be based with the BFC to undertake research for the Institute of Positive Fashion.

Representation

• CIC Innovation & R&D Sub-group
• CIC Access to Growth Sub-group
• UKRI Fashion Working Group
• Department for International Development Garment Supply Chains Working
  Group
• EPR Working Group, (Extended Producer Responsibility) with Department
  for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs
  
  

INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY

Protection of Intellectual Property is a key issue for the fashion industry, which relies on creativity, design and brands.

Issues

• The law specific to Unregistered Designs protects the designers in the country where they are first disclosed whether public or private. Disclosure in the UK no longer affords protection across the EU. This is reciprocal for international brands.
• Under “exhaustion of rights” laws, there is currently a continuity of supply of parallel imports into the UK from the EEA, without reciprocity, thereby putting UK-based agents/distributors at a disadvantage.

Key Wins

• The BFC has created a guide for designers and is speaking to partners to help with practical solutions.

Representation

• AgencyWorking closely with the Intellectual Property Office
• CIC Intellectual Property Sub-Group
  
  

TIMELINE

The below timeline outlines the BFC’s engagement with the Government on behalf of the fashion industry.

June 2022

• On Wednesday 8th June, BFC Chair Stephanie Phair, and BFC CEO hosted an event at No10 Downing Street with the Prime Minister Boris Johnson to set out the foundations of a 10 year Industrial Change Programme, focussed on creating a world leading circular fashion ecosystem with innovation and creativity.

May 2022

• On Tuesday 3rd May, BFC CEO Caroline Rush met with Paul Scully, Minister of State for Small Business, Minister of State for London, Business Energy & Industrial Strategy to discuss the Agency Supplement Consultation, and to discuss London Fashion Week as well as the importance of SMEs in the fashion industry.

February 2022

• On Wednesday 9th February, the BFC and Institute for Positive Fashion met with Jo Churchill, Parliamentary-under-Secretary of State for Agri-Innovation and Climate Adaptation at Fabrica Mills, Kings Cross to look at the incubator and work around sustainability and innovation.

December 2021

• On Wednesday 1st December, BFC CEO Caroline Rush met with Julia Lopez MP, Minister of State for Media, Data and Digital Infrastructure to introduce the work of the BFC in her new post and to discuss the key issues facing the fashion industry and what can be done to ensure Britain continues to lead the way in a sector that contributes £35bn to the UK economy and employs over 890,000 people
• BFC held a Roundtable at No10 Downing Street on the back of the Cop26 Summit and work towards the circular economy and sustainability in the fashion sector.

November 2021

• The BFC contributed to the Cop26 United Nations Climate Change Conference in Glasgow
• On 9th November BFC CEO Caroline Rush met with Jo Churchill, Parliamentary-under-Secretary of State for Agri-Innovation and Climate Adaptation to discuss how the fashion industry can make positive change and the sustainability work through the Institute for Positive Fashion.

September 2021

• On 20th September BFC CEO Caroline Rush met with Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport, Nadine Dorries whilst she attended London Fashion Week, attending the Roksanda show.
• Caroline Rush BFC CEO attended the Dubai Expo and showcased designers with an exclusive catwalk show, as well as a series of talks promoting our work.

March 2021

• On Thursday 11th March, BFC Chair Stephanie Phair and BFC CEO Caroline Rush met with Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport Oliver Dowden to discuss the key issues facing the fashion industry and what can be done to ensure Britain continues to lead the way in a sector that contributes £35bn to the UK economy and employs over 890,000 people
• On Tuesday 9th March, the British Fashion Council and UK Fashion & Textiles hosted a forum for the fashion industry to update on the work they do to represent the industry to the government. This was the first time that this information was presented in one place. Invited guest speakers were: Helen Dickinson CEO of the British Retail Consortium and Tamara Cincik Founder and CEO of Fashion Roundtable. The forum was also attended by government colleagues including the Department for Digital Culture Media & Sport, Department for International Trade, Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy, and the Mayor of London’s Culture team. These updated forums will be held on a monthly basis and give BFC and UKFT the opportunity to update the industry on developments as well as get feedback first hand. For more information please get in touch with government@britishfashioncouncil.com
• The BFC responds to Spring Budget Statement, read more here.

February 2021

• The BFC has secured free testing for designers and brands taking part in London Fashion Week through their partnership with Westminster Council.
• The BFC is working with the Mayor of London’s Business Hub to ensure that the fashion sector in London has a better understanding of new requirements involved in selling, trading and working in the EU. Together we are developing a range of support that will deliver webinars and 1-2-1 activity covering topics such as rules of origin, IP, e-commerce and VAT.

January 2021

• An open Letter to the Prime Minister to focus attention on the challenges facing the fashion industry by Caroline Rush, British Fashion Council published in GQ
• DCMS and the Border and Protocol Delivery Group (within Cabinet Office) hosts a webinar with the British Fashion Council. Policy experts from across the government (HMRC, Department of Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy and the Home Office) spoke on changes arising from the end of the Transition Period which affect the fashion industry and preparations for London Fashion Week. Topics covered movement of people (e.g. travelling to EU/UK for business purposes) and movement of goods (e.g. customs processes, customs relief, temporary admission and rules of origin).
• The BFC has ensured, with the support of DCMS, that productions for London Fashion Week February 2021 go ahead under COVID secure guidelines.